When tourism overcomes the attraction

LUCY BURDETTE: We were toying with the idea of going to Iceland next year, but reading articles about how tourists have overrun the island was discouraging. Apparently Justin Bieber's video caused some of the tourist crush on Iceland, along with the filming of Game of Thrones.

At the New England Crimebake this year, our guest of honor Ann Cleeves mentioned that the person who owns the house where she pictured Jimmy Perez living agreed to allow the home to be used in the shooting of Shetland, the TV series. He’s regretting that now, as people are constantly knocking on his door. He finally put up a sign that says “Jimmy Perez does not live here.” Here's a screenshot of a tour called "Jimmy Perez's Shetland." (I admit that I love Jimmy and would probably take this tour even if it's hokey.)

And when we made an overnight stop to Ireland this summer as part of our Scotland vacation, we did experience some of the big crowds at a world heritage site called the Giants Causeway. Here are a couple of pictures John took when he hiked up high.

And here's what we saw as we walked along the path at the bottom (photo by my sister, Susan Cerulean.)

I’ve been thinking about this because of the book that I’m currently writing taking place in Scotland. Can I come up with a plot based on this kind of tourism conflict? We shall see. Have you had this kind of experience while traveling? Are there places you would choose not to go because too many people have ruined the attraction?

HALLIE EPHRON: We encountered this issue visiting Croatia. Dubrovnik, for instance, is SO crowded with tourists. Venice, too. Ketchikan. I imagine you have the same thing in Key West. It’s a particular a problem visiting any coastal city that’s got cruise ships docking. One of those massive ships docks, and THOUSANDS of passengers spill out overwhelming the town. A few hours later they swarm back to the boat and the town is deserted. 

Reykjavik handles tourist crowds remarkably well. Tourism (along with fish and electric power) is what fuels their economy. 

The thing about these places is that they’re spectacular. (Loved Giants Causeway!) 

HANK PHILLIPPI RYAN: Wasn’t there just something about the Mona Lisa? Deep in my brain--that they--took it down, because of something like that? Maybe I dreamed it. Or--Beyonce got a private tour and everyone is mad? I have a terrible cold and my brain is not working.

But what if the tourism conflict is about a FABULOUS place (a restaurant?) where it used to be booked years in advance that for some reason suddenly NO ONE wants to visit, because of,  I don’t know, bad romaine? (or whatever, kidding) and the sleuth (is it Hayley?) has to figure out what really happened and who’s trying to ruin where ever it is?

We went to a restaurant in Florence called Enotecca Pincchiori that was incredible (but so expensive, yeeessh)  and you had to book a year in advance.

 (That was the time where at the next table there were two truly chic American parents, with their two INCREDIBLY entitled teenaged girls, and when they ordered, the girls told the waiter to put the sauce on the side and asked for all manner of changes to the menu. The waiter politely took the order, and then five minutes later came back and said (in pretty fabulous English)  “The chef says to tell you he makes his food the way the makes his food and he cannot cook the way you tell him. The dishes are prepared as they are on the menu. And he says to tell you, you are no longer welcome and please leave.”

AND THEY HAD TO LEAVE!

(Lucy, feel free to use that!)

LUCY: Wow, thanks Hank, what an amazing story!

DEBS: I absolutely LOVE this!! Hooray for the chef!

RHYS BOWEN: I spent a lot of time in Venice last summer and experienced the tourist overload. One day there were six cruise ships docked  SIX!!! Trying to walk between St Marks and Rialto was impossible. And the wash from those giant ships passing a few feet from the buildings is certainly contributing to the damage. Luckily they all disappear by 4:pm and the city returns to normality. 

But the interesting thing I’ve always found is that I only have to walk a few yards off the tourist track and it’s absolute peace. Never had problems with restaurants over on the other side of the Grand Canal.

We found this in Yosemite once when I camped with the children. We hiked half a mile down the river and got a little beach to ourselves when the park was jam packed. 

Another tip is to go to popular sites early in the morning!

JULIA SPENCER-FLEMING: I’ve had the experience of getting close to or climbing on archeological remains that are now closed to the public not once, but twice. I visited Stonehenge in the early eighties, when you could wander around the site and touch the stones. And in the early nineties, Ross and I went to Chichen Itza, and climbed El Castillo (the Temple of Kukulcan) some of the smaller step pyramids, and walked through the Ball Court. Of course, lots and lots and LOTS of visitors liked to do the same, and now both sites are severely restricted. 

One thing I’ve noticed about many of the tourist-endangered attractions - they’re UNESCO World Heritage Sites. In fact, I just checked - with the exception of Shetland and Reykjavik, every place we’ve mentioned in the discussion so far is a World Heritage Site (and Reykjavik is the only city close to several named sites in Iceland.) It’s an incredible program and treaty, and very important in rallying conservation efforts, but it also does seem to put a large bullseye on targets that are shortly overwhelmed by tourists who’ve put -------- on their must-see list.

JENN McKINLAY: This is likely why I’ll never kiss the Blarney Stone! I’ve discovered I’m a big believer in off season travel. We did London and Bath in early June (still cold) and it was lovely and not overly crowded. We also went to Stonehenge and while we couldn’t get near the stones because of restrictions, it wasn’t a zoo and I really enjoyed the audio tour. We went to Paris in mid October this year (also on the chilly side) and while there were crowds, it wasn’t the intense height of summer nonsense that ruins the trip. Down in the Catacombs, it wasn’t crowded at all! Go figure. I can’t think of a place I wouldn’t go because of crowds but I can definitely see the appeal of choosing places that are not trending! Ugh! I mean I love people, but I go on vacation to get away from them!

DEBORAH CROMBIE: Julia, I got to see Stonehenge before it was restricted, too. It was amazing. I've also been more recently, and while I understand that the fencing is necessary, it's not the same experience.

Somehow I seldom end up in England in the high season, but some of the times I've been in London in August have been miserable. Not only crowds but unexpected heat waves, no air-conditioning. Same with Paris. I did live in a very touristy city, Chester, and the crowds and tour buses in the summer made doing any ordinary thing in the town almost impossible. It was not a happy experience.

Reds, have you had this kind of experience while traveling? Are there places you would choose not to go because too many people have ruined the attraction?