RHYs BOWEN: Next week I'm going to New York for the Edgars. I haven't been in a couple of years. I can't say I miss it. I'm not a big city person. I like nature and quiet. But as cities go, New York has everything. It's a true city. Not a boring, bleak financial district and then suburbs and malls like many American cities. I probably won't do much when I'm there, as I have endless meals scheduled, but I may pop down to Greenwich Village where Molly hangs out. And if the weather is kind I'll certainly want to walk in Central Park. This is me in Patchin Place where Molly lives!
i've assembled some of the reasons why I like New York:
Since I’ve been an observer of New York, I’ve had a chance to detail what I like about it. Here are my top ten reasons for liking the city:
1. It is a true city where living, working, eating, shopping all take place on the same block. In other cities the commercial areas are dead after working hours. Not so New York. It lives twenty four hours a day.
2. Life is not confined to buildings. It spills out onto sidewalks and into parks. At the first sign of spring, tables and umbrellas come out onto sidewalks, people take their food into parks. They sit outside the public library playing chess. There are impromptu jazz bands and barbershop quartets in the subway at Grand Central and outdoor concerts in Central Park.
3. It is a city of artwork. There are mosaics in the subway stations—my favorite is the Alice in Wonderland motif at 50th Street. Look up and you’ll see Egyptian temples, art deco medallions, Greek columns and marble frescos, sometimes eight or ten floors above ground level. For whom were the art deco goddesses and marble pediments intended? Certainly not the pedestrians who walk below and never look up as they hurry to the nearest subway. Not always the inhabitants of buildings opposite as some of them face blank walls. I like to think of them as a little offering to the gods above.
4. It is a city of good smells. Every block has at least one good aroma wafting out of a café, or from a sidewalk cart—roasting coffee, frying onions, curry, sesame oil, baking bread. Luckily New Yorkers have to walk so much or they’d all be fat.
5. New York is a city of dogs. They are not much in evidence during the day, unless one encounters a dog walker, being dragged down Fifth Avenue by six or seven of her charges. But early evening, the dogs come out, each with his accompanying human, whom he often resembles in stature and walk. Interestingly enough, there are more big dogs than small. You would have thought that dachshunds and yorkies would have been ideal for city life, but I see more golden retrievers and labs and standard poodles, even Afghan hounds. New Yorkers are well trained too. Not a speck of poop in sight on the sidewalks.
6. It is a city of cheap eats and cheap shops. There are coffee shops all over where two dollars will buy an egg roll and coffee for breakfast. Even sushi bars offer two for one on weeknights. And T shirts with the famous I love NY slogan on them are now two for ten dollars. Of course I also saw a T shirt for three hundred dollars in Bloomies, so I have to say also that New York is…
7. …a city of contrasts. On the bus old ladies from the upper East Side wearing tired looking furs and smelling of face powder and moth balls sit next to young men in baggy pants, gang colors and caps worn backward. Sometimes they look at each other and smile.
The hot dog cart on the street is only a few steps away from the most pretentious tea salon in the universe. Their tea menu is twelve pages long. When I ask for a Darjeeling, I am directed to a page full of Darjeelings and a First Flush, Robertson Estate is recommended. I am so tempted to take a sip, look indignant and exclaim, “You’ve brought me a second flush, you imposter!”
8. It is a city of haste. Everything in New York is done quickly. People leap from sidewalks to snare cabs. They run down subway steps. They inch out into traffic and anticipate the Walk sign by a good two seconds. In Bryant Park outside the library men play chess at breakneck speed. Knight to bishop two-ding, and the timer bell is slapped, Queen to rook four-ding. The whole game is over in five minutes. A crowd of men stands around, watching.
9. It is also a city of quiet corners in which time stands still. There is a fair being held in a churchyard with home baked cookies and crocheted potholders. I once got locked, by mistake, in Gramercy park, which is the only private square in the city when I had stayed at the Gramercy Park hotel and gone there to regroup in the calm of nature. In Central Park proud moms and darker skinned nannies watch light skinned children play in the sand or climb the rocks. It is easy to get lost in Central Park, easy to forget that you are in a city at all.
10. And most surprisingly for one who has visited New York for the past thirty years---it is a city of friendly people. Everything changed after 9/11. These days people chat as they wait for buses. They see tourists puzzling over maps and ask if they need help. Bus drivers actually call out the name of streets intelligibly and answer questions when asked. A minor miracle has occurred—the one good by-product of a 9/11 that touched every New York life and forged and strengthened it with fire.
I'll be staying at the Marriott Marquis which has the scariest elevators in the world. All glass and plunge down forty something floors in seconds!
View from my hotel room last time here!
So are you a fan of New York? What do you like about it? Hate about it?
My "like" about New York is Broadway . . . nothing quite matches New York's amazing theater experience . . . .
ReplyDeleteUnfortunately no time for a show this visit!
DeleteJoan, my first trip to NYC was for a family wedding, which was actually across the bridge in New Jersey, though we stayed in NYC. We went to see Broadway shows like Peter Pan with Sandy Duncan. When I think of New York City, I think of classic movies like Miracle on 39th Street and Broadway.
DeleteI'm glad to hear so many positives about the city. The last time I was there, last summer, I had the bad luck to go on the hottest day of the year. This country mouse was completely freaked out by the big city. I did take a lovely walk on the High Line in the cool of the next morning, but I got lost on the subway on the way to see my editor. After meeting and lunch, I walked all the way back to Penn Station and then had a horrible sit-on-the tracks Acela ride home that arrived three hours late.
ReplyDeleteI'll have to try again with a tour guide next time!
New York heat is the worst. My first visit I stayed with a woman with no air conditioning. I thought I’d die
DeleteI grew up an hour outside NYC. My father and mother adored the city in the 1940s and had moved to the suburbs in 1950 only because they planned to have children. Dad became a commuter. Alone of the five children as we grew up, I never liked the city and never lived there even briefly. Though some of my avoidance from those days may be due to the reign of Son of Sam, who preyed on girls with long brown hair parted in the middle — a description of me at the time — I who am never claustrophobic even today feel sick with claustrophobia in all the concrete. (All cities do this to me.) On my most recent stop there I remember looking with pity at little potted trees for sale on a sidewalk. Over the years I would visit the city occasionally on day trips to go through various historical archives but now that so much is available online I am happy to skip the journey. (Selden)
ReplyDeleteThat is scary about living there during the Son of Sam reign! I also feel sad for the birds and plants/trees in cities. And have experienced that sense of claustrophobia mostly in NYC. I didn’t feel that way as much in Paris though. Perhaps because the beautiful architecture is a good distraction! And I think cities that have water/rivers flowing might help also? For me it comes down to the lack of nature and overwhelming amount of people. It’s just too much. Yet I have city friends who feel comforted by the close proximity of people. Even my sister (who grew up in our country house) prefers the hustle and bustle of cities and likes being surrounded by people. I’m trying not to analyze her too closely.
DeleteI wrote a poem for a children’s book once.
DeleteI met a lonely tree on a city street today
They built a cage around it so it couldn’t run away
My only trip to NYC was w a travel club centered on a visit to the Statue of Liberty. It was so crowded on the subway & the boats because it was a Saturday & all tourists were out. Had to stand for hours waiting for a boat back from the statue. I said to my friend because of the huge crowd, “There’s probably a serial killer here.” Without slight hesitation she said, “Yes, and it’s me.” Because she was exhausted & ready to kill.
ReplyDeleteGiggling here.
DeleteI've never been to NYC. I'm definitely a country mouse, like Edith, and break out in hives at the idea of getting lost in all that concrete. I have several friends who've offered to be my personal tour guide if I ever do venture there, though.
ReplyDeleteI think you should see it once. It is impressive
DeleteMy mother was a New Yorker and had all kinds of stories about growing up there in the 30's. As a child, we visited for a week on most scool holidays. My grandmother and my aunt made sure that we got to do the exciting things like the circus, the car show, Radio City, the Museum of Natural History, etc. Some of my grandmother's sisters came to visit almost every day. On Wednesdays, they all came to play cards and the apartment wiuld ring with their voices. Several were older than her. Aunt Fanny was brave and took us to the park where we climbed on rocks and swung on swings overlooking the Hudson River. As a young teen, I even went horseback riding with my mother's best friend's daughter, in Van Cortland Park. My memories of grandma's building and her apartment are some of my fondest and also probably very fuzzy. I remember sitting on the Manhattan telephone directory to reach the table. When my dad came on the weekends, he'd take us for walks on the GW Bridge and we'd stand with one foot in New Jersey and one foot in New York. It was magic.
ReplyDeleteWhen I was on the national board of a women's organization, I went into the city several times a year for meetings. I never was completely comfortable about getting around on subways and busses, so I walked a lot.
We rarely go to the City for anything now. I never really learned my way around and Irwin isn't a fan. But I am extremely nostalgic about the time I spent there as a kid. If my mother had been well enough to take us out and show us around, I might have learned more about how to get from place to place. Oh, well.
I’m glad you had magical family experiences. Those are the best
DeleteMy first trip of many to NYC was a buying trip when I worked for a small chain of clothing stores here in Cincinnati. It was so exciting, and because I was with my boss I was introduced to many things most tourists never discover, like the best place to have a kosher lunch, mile-high cheesecake, matzo ball soup and borscht, egg creams, chestnut roasters in the winter, and the meaning of the roving mikvah bath buses that drove around the city, picking up devout Orthodox Jewish women to have ritual baths--on the bus--while in motion on the city streets. Back in the mid-1970's, Times Square was still a seething hotbed of sin, with XXX sex shows going on 24 hours a day, and a bit scary for 24-year old smalltown girl me to walk through. I never experienced true rudeness there, though, which my friends were all astonished to hear.
ReplyDeleteThe city has changed a lot since then, but it's still a vibrant and exciting place, with every kind of cuisine you can dream of, so much culture and public art and random celebrity sightings, as well as more cacophony and noise than I can take for more than three or four days. But well worth the trip to experience it all.
You echo what I felt my first time there in the 70s. It was more sleazy and scary. But fascinating about the mitzvah buses. I did not know that!
DeleteMy bosses were Jewish, and most of the Garment District was, too, at the time. I learned a lot about a culture I'd never known anything about before then. Mikvah baths are a purification rite for devout Jewish women, once a month. I wonder how that is managed now, no doubt at stationary locations!
DeleteAnother country mouse here (in Maine) but I have visited NY a few times (good for them, not for me). I honestly always feel kind of sad for the dogs who live there. In my mind they should all get to live in the country and run through the woods for their daily walks. I always tell my dog how lucky she is to live like her wolfie ancestors did! These days I’d only travel back to NY for a Broadway show. But Boston has a good line-up these days so maybe not? I am glad there are people who live in cities though and I enjoy watching shows set in them. It helps remind me why I live in the country. I also have several city friends who like to visit and harass me for living like a pioneer. For the record, I just went out to dinner for delicious sushi and it was only a 15 minute drive! The owners of the restaurant are from Los Angeles. They’ve been here for 6 years and have no plans to leave. We lived in London and outside San Fran over the years. I really tried my hardest to acclimate to city and sprawl living. I do think there might be something either DNA related or perhaps nature vs nurture (no pun intended!) with city vs country people?
ReplyDeleteWhen I lived in London I had to escape to Hempstead heath or walk along the Thames to see open skies
DeleteI’ve been to NYC one time. Once was enough for my husband, but I would like to go back at Christmas time. I would sum it up as it was a nice place to visit but I wouldn’t want to live there. So much to see and do. Lots of real places that I read about in fictional books or seen in TV and in the movies made it interesting to me. But I cringed to see little kids in strollers in all the dirt and grime. Squeezing between wall to wall people to get on the subway is an art form that I have no desire to perfect.
ReplyDeleteA lot of people from New York have retired here in Ocala, Florida. I have one friend who is constantly commenting on how pretty it is here will all the green vegetation.
I’d like to do the city at Christmas too. And London and Paris
DeleteWhat good timing. I am excited to go to NYC next week, it’s way overdue. I am going to see cousin & sister in law. Almost more important I will go Carnegie Hall first time, to see YoYoMa playing with Boston Symphony where I moved from to CHS, SC. I’ve seen YoYo several times, since Cranes Beach, Ipswich, Ma he played a series for Davios . Devine, exquisite, timely…. This will be a different mood, ever so memorable I hope. I was last there years ago skating in Rockefeller Center. Now NYC in Spring. Hope it is all I hope for & more.
ReplyDeleteHow can you go wrong with Ma playing?
DeleteRhys, you did such a good job of describing New York! We are making our way through NYPD Blue when NY was so much uglier and crime ridden--John. lived there back in the day, it wasn't pretty. We lived in NJ and my dad commuted so he hated the city. I love visiting two or three times a year and even imagine living there so I could see all the shows and hear the music and see the art. I know it would cost big bucks though!
ReplyDeleteAs well as the other two places, right? They are too nice to give up!
DeleteLucy, your story about crime in New York reminded me of a story my Dad told me. The weather became too cold in New York City that the criminals did Not commit a crime that day because it was too cold to venture out.
DeleteRhys what a wonderful description of NYC! I've been once in 1985. We only stayed a day or two. I don't feel I really got to see much or experience the city. I wish we had explored more and stayed a little longer.
ReplyDeleteYou do need time to savor New York otherwise it’s overwhelming
DeleteYou didn't even mention THEATER! Living near New Haven now, I go into NYC a few times each year for lunch and a play!! -- Denise Terry
ReplyDeleteWhat are the differences between New York and London, England?
ReplyDeleteI love London and have been lucky enough to visit many times, but answering your question would take many pages. What are the differences between London and Paris? Or all of them and ...Venice? Or New Orleans? To me, a great city is that it is itself, different from other great cities and endlessly explorable. If a person wants just one thing - say, theater, they can find it in London OR New York. But NY tells the story of immigration with a great museum and only London has Churchill's war rooms.
DeleteRhys, thank you! I think you've captured it! In all the many years I have been a New Yorker by choice, I still sometimes look around and say (to myself, of course), "I can't believe I am in the middle of all this." Ex #1 - the subway mosaics: the station that takes you to the Museum of Natrual History is a knock out, worthy of a trip just for itself. Ex #2- today we take our daughter for a birthday dinner just a few minutes from home. And all at once we will overlook the great harbor, eat a grand seafood meal not very expensively, stop at a giant Ikea if we feel like it...and thrill to the world famous Statue of Liberty. Only in New York, right?
ReplyDeleteShalom Reds and readers – I grew up in New York City. My parents lived on Allerton Avenue in the Bronx when I was born. However, my first recollections are of Brooklyn. We lived in the projects (Cypress Hills). 700 Euclid Avenue, Apartment 5B. Our phone number was Applegate 7 3055. There was a public library in the development and I remember going there for Story Hour. I remember at the age of perhaps 5, being tasked with the responsibility of picking up the Sunday New York Times on my own. The “candy store” was about a quarter to a half mile away (maybe 5 city blocks). Our paper was paid for a week in advance and I would bring money (perhaps a dollar) for the following week’s paper. I had to count the sections to make sure we were getting everything we paid for.
ReplyDeleteWhen I was about 7, we moved to Rockaway Queens. Again the projects. These were new. We were among the first residents. We needed a three bedroom apartment as I by then had two younger brothers. In elementary school, we lived close enough, that I could walk home at lunch time, eat and get back to school for the final two hours of the day.
When I was ten or so, I was allowed to take the subway with my friends and without adult supervision, and travel into “the city”, meaning Manhattan. We would eat lunch at a chain restaurant called Tad’s Steakhouse. I think we each could eat for about $10. That was on 14 th Street. After we would make our way on the subway to Rockafeller Center and catch a movie and the Rockettes at Radio City Music Hall. When I was a bit older, I got into the art of magic. There was a magicians retail outlet not far from Times Square called Lou Tannen’s. It is still there, although not in the same place. Lou and his brother would demonstrate a few tricks. If we wanted to know the secret we had to pay for the gimmick or whatever and the instructions. The best thing I ever bought there was the hardcover catalog for about $10. Tricks and illusions were pictured and described from $5 to several thousands. Lou and his brother are long gone, but I have been on their email list for several years now.
When I was in my teens, one of my aunts, bought me a membership at MOMA (the Museum of Modern Art). Every day the museum was open they screened old movies down in an auditorium of their basement. During the summer, I would regular travel the hour ride into Manhattan, just to see all the old classic movies for free.
I lived in New York until I was almost 35, moving first to Philadelphia and then to Bucks County. Before the pandemic, I would travel to New York City often. When he was yet alive, I would visit my Dad in the Bronx. After he died, I had few reasons to visit but several times a year I would. I don’t drive and the pandemic killed public transit from where I live to the Big Apple. I’ve learned to live my life at a slower pace.
Fascinating, David! You reminded me of visiting a vendor showroom in the mid-'70's and celebrating the owner's 50th birthday with him. He was very excited because he was going to get his first driver's license. I was astonished, until they explained how little need for a car there was in the city, and how expensive it was to own and park one, too. You are a true city dweller!
DeleteAs i age, the pace most New Yorkers walk has gotten tough for me to emulate. I used to adopt that fast walk, jump off the curb, jog into the subway corridor style the minute I reached Manhattan. Like you, I've learned to like a slower life!
DeleteDavid, I love your story of growing up in New York! It captures some of the magical feeling I always had there. It also reminded me of Whoopi Goldberg's recent biography, which I listened to a month or two ago. Her story is a big kiss to a city of wonder and opportunity if you know your way around.
DeleteI love love love New York! Agree, Rhys! But it would be impossible to live there, I think, incredibly expensive. But it would be amazingly exciting. There’s always something fascinating incredible new beautiful historic or revelatory. And Rhys, cannot wait to see you and Lucy! Xxx
ReplyDeleteAnd if anyone has not read Heather Cox Richardson today, please do. Xx
ReplyDeleteInteresting comments about NYC. I remember Central Park. We went to Rockfeller Center with the Ice Skating Rink. There was the American Girls Museum within walking distance from Rock Center. We saw the Morgan Library and the Frick. When I visit NYC again in the future, I would like to visit Alice's Tea Cup cafe. NYC seems to be a contrast of villages, which I saw from the ride to the airport from my hotel.
ReplyDeleteLike others, I don't have pleasant memories of NYC. I visited between 1978 and 1981 when the Bronx looked like Berlin after WWII. At twilight the sky was chocolate brown from the pollution. My husband morphed into a 'sheepdog" herding us along and snarling Don't talk dont look keepmovingfaster. Not fun.
ReplyDeleteI've only been to New York once as a chaperone for my kids band trip but I enjoyed it and wished I would've had more time there! However, the smell in Times Square isn't something I need to experience again.
ReplyDeleteI love all those things about New York, Rhys, and most of them about London!
ReplyDeleteMy home town! I relish all the aspects you do, and would only add museums, museums, museums, concerts every night somewhere, the burst of spring in April, and the trees along Fifth Avenue, and, and....
ReplyDeleteI like New York. I grew up in CT, about forty to sixty minutes away by train, depending on the number of stops. Many people in my hometown commuted to the city for their jobs.
ReplyDeleteI live about forty minutes farther away now. Some area residents do commute to New York for work. I think that would be a tiring commute, but for a good job I suppose it would be worth it. Better than driving in!
When I was five years old my parents took me and one of my four younger siblings to the city to see the Christmas displays and the Rockefeller Center Christmas tree, and to see the holiday show at Radio City. I loved every minute of the entire day! I don’t get there much these days. The last time I was there was just before the pandemic. Friends and I would go to see a Broadway play every two or three years. We’ve been talking about going there again later this spring.
DebRo
We love to drive to NYC and have the hotel park the car for the weekend. I always plan the trip around at least one Broadway show and make reservations in advance at new restaurants or at old favorites. There is always something special that I want to see or do. Once was to meet chef Lidia Bastianich. Once was to dine at Peter Luger's. Once was to see the Rockerfeller Christmas tree. Another was to attend Easter Sunday mass at St Patrick's and then march down Fifth Avenue in the parade. On our next visit, I want to visit the reopened Frick, catch a Broadway play and have lunch at Sardi's. On the drive home, we always stop ay Frank Pepe's in Fairfield, CT right off of 95 for a pizza and a birch beer as that always helps with the traffic!
ReplyDeleteI've not been in NYC since 2000. I loved the theatre, symphony, ballet, etc. I also loved Central Park and Greenwich Village. It was great to just walk around and explore. I never made it to the Bronx. I also love London. I don't know when I'll make it back again. Between taking care of my old dog and Social Security, travel isn't an option. These days my traveling is done via books I read and Britbox & Acorn tv shows. But who knows what the future holds.
ReplyDeleteI agree with everything you said about New York, Rhys, and it's a city I love that I've been visiting over and over since I was a child, because I have always had relatives there that I could stay with. With my 90-year-old uncle still living there and a number of close friends, I visit once a year, even from Switzerland, and when I lived in Boston, I visited three or four times a year by train. I have so many places in the city that I love, but I think my favorite is the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
ReplyDeleteI've always been grateful that I had a chance to live in Manhattan - 10 years, starting with college and then finishing grad school and teaching at PS 189M and living on the upper West side (98th St and Broadway). Because if you LIVE in Manhattan you get to feel very comfortable just about anywhere in the city. Getting around... It's so logical, the way the streets are laid out. And once you get the hang of the subway, well, the world is your oyster. And yes, there's as much going on a 3 in the morning as there is at noon.
ReplyDeleteThese days, my kids are in Brooklyn and my sister Delia is in the Village so I get plenty of opportunities to visit. And when I DO get turned around and I've found New Yorkers SO KIND in telling me what direction I should be headed. Just start with a polite "Excuse me, but can you tell me..." and they will.
My last Broadway show was Hades Town. And Wicked. And there's a bunch of new (and not so new) shows I'd love to see. But it is *SO* expensive.